Fulling
Home fulled Cashmere knit
There's a finishing process in knitwear production known as "fulling." Though it might not be a widely recognized concept, it's a crucial step that significantly impacts the texture of cashmere knitwear.
Unlike the soft yarn sold in retail stores, the yarn used in knitting factories is initially hard and stiff. During the final stages, the knitted item undergoes fulling, where it is kneaded in water to allow moisture to penetrate the fibers. This process causes the fibers to interlock, shrink, and increase in thickness. As a result, fuzz emerges from the threads, reducing the visibility of the individual fibers and creating the signature fluffy texture of knits.
We've observed that even when the same yarn and knitting method are used, the texture of the finished product can vary depending on the factory. After investigating the source of these differences, we found that factors such as the soaking time in water, the degree of kneading, the amount of washing, and the drying method all contribute to the final texture. Additionally, the color of the yarn can cause slight variations in the finished product, even when the same fulling method is applied. Each factory uses its knowledge and experience to develop a unique fulling recipe.
To achieve the desired finish and highlight the beauty of cashmere yarn, we decided to take on the fulling process ourselves. We receive products in their raw knitted state and, with guidance from Toyoboshi, have developed a series that emphasizes texture through home fulling.
By experimenting with various samples—adjusting soaking time, washing duration, and kneading intensity—we gathered extensive data. Through natural air-drying, we've aimed for a finish that is fluffy, gentle, moist, and smooth, resulting in what we consider the "ideal" texture for our cherished cashmere yarn, PIARA. We hope you'll enjoy how the softness increases with each wash at home.